SHIFTING ROOTS

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How to Compost when its Freezing Outside

November 14, 2020

We all want to do our part and compost as much as we can. But how do you continue composting in winter, especially if you live in the freezing hinterland that is Canada? Does composting even work in winter? And what about when it’s minus 40?!?!

If you are looking for someone who understands what it’s like to try and continue composting during six long months of winter, you’ve come to the right place. I live in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada, so I know what it’s like to trudge through 2 feet of snow to the compost bin.

By the end of this post, you’ll know how to winter compost, how it works, and what fellow Canadians do when the temperature is unreasonable.

If you’d rather watch than read, watch this video below on winter composting.. .

Can You Compost in Winter?

Yes, but it’s probably not what you think. Even though a large compost pile will create a substantial amount of heat, the average household compost pile will freeze during a Canadian winter.

Translation: Nothing is happening.

But don’t let that deter you. You can still put all of your household scraps on the compost pile all winter long. When the weather warms up in the spring, the decomposition process will start again and your pile will continue to make black gold.

Before I had a fancy compost bin, I threw my household compost straight on my garden area over the snow all winter long. Sure, it was a bit gross when the snow melted, but I just lightly worked it into the soil as soon as the ground was dry, and the bulk of it decomposed in around 2 weeks.

As long as you don’t throw in any bones or meat (and you shouldn’t be anyway!) rodents shouldn’t be a problem.

Related: Compostable Newsprint Pots

How do you take care of a compost bin in winter?

The secret? Do nothing, except add your kitchen scraps to it.

You don’t need to worry about having too many green items in it, because chances are, you loaded up your compost in the fall with lots of browns (leaves, garden waste, etc.) If you’re really worried, you can always turn your compost in the spring as soon as it thaws out.

You also don’t have to worry about mixing the compost in with the snow or scraping snow off, or anything like that. Just dump the kitchen scraps on the compost bin, and let Mother Nature do the work in the Spring. Done.

Want to see our compost bin out of pallets? Here’s how we made it.

But what about when it’s FREEZING!

I’ll admit, I don’t really want to trudge out to the compost bin in -40 either. In that case, you can keep a large plastic container just outside your door to dump all of your compostable items in. They’ll freeze, and when the temperature is slightly more reasonable, move that frozen block of future compost to the main composting area.

Some people do this method the entire winter, and never go to the main composting area. Whatever you decide is fine, as long as it eventually goes in the compost bin.

Can’t I just Compost Indoors?

Sure! I personally don’t, because I have toddlers, and things could get messy very fast if I’m not careful. If you can compost indoors, you have a couple of options.

The first: Grab a large plastic bin with a lid and store your compost in there. After every week, sprinkle the contents with a thin layer of peat moss or soil that you’ve either saved from your garden or purchased from a store. You’ll eventually have to empty it out, but you can go a lot longer between those times.

The second: Give more advanced techniques, like vermicomposting or bokashi composting a try. I personally haven’t tried them, so I won’t go into them, but they are two good ways to make your scraps into compost a lot faster.

Will you give winter composting a try? Any tips to add?

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Filed Under: Uncategorised Tagged: compost, composting, winter, winter gardening

Frost Proof Flower Garden

November 12, 2020

frost proof your cut flower garden

Don't let a surprise early frost cut your cut flower season short. With this strategy, you can keep your flowers going until mid-October

Get the Strategy

Have you ever felt frustrated by the first frost?

You've worked hard all spring and summer to grow the most beautiful cut flower garden, creating and selling gorgeous floral creations. But then an early frost in the forecast threatens to cut everything short--both your flowers and your business. Worse yet, because of your short growing season, you've barely even enjoyed those dahlias.

So you try to cover all your warm season crops and race around the garden like a crazy person, draping sheets and salvaging whatever blooms you can. You work until all hours of the night by flashlight, hoping to protect your investment. Maybe it works--or maybe it doesn't. Now you're left with a ruined garden and ruined dreams. Your season and potential to sell bouquets was suddenly cut short, and there's nothing you can do about it. . . or is there?

While I can’t save these dahlias, I can give you a backup plan.  Wouldn’t it feel great knowing your flower growing season wouldn’t have to end early?  Wouldn’t it be great to take back some control over your cut flower business?  Imagine the confidence you’d feel, knowing you still have flowers to create with, at least until mid-October, even though you live in a short growing season.

What if you could Work with mother nature, instead of against her...

What if instead of wringing your hands that frost is going to destroy all your hard work, you could go into fall knowing you had a secret section of your cut flower garden, specifically grown to withstand all but the hardest frosts?  

That your cut flower business could keep going when everyone else is out of flowers?

What if you could actually enjoy those weeks of sunshine and beautiful weather after the first frost–still making bouquets instead of feeling bitter that all you have is dead flowers?

Introducing

The Frost Proof Flower Garden

Your secret weapon when frost hits early.  The Frost Proof Flower Garden is a combination of smart flower choices and strategic planting that will extend your blooms in short growing seasons and cold climates.

Here's what you'll get

  • An ebook full of the best cold tolerant flowers to grow, using different shapes and textures to make sure your bouquets look beautiful.
  • A done-for-you growing plan, so you know exactly what to plant with the correct spacing.
  • Suggestions for where to purchase the prettiest cut flower seeds that all the flower flower farmers grow.
  • Week by week seed starting guide--with starting times for both regular growing and our special frost free growing.

This could be your garden--and it doesn't have to die once the temperature dips

secure your strategy now

The Frost Free Flower Garden is on now for a special introductory price of only $12.  Canadians, use the code CANADA to account for the exchange.

Get Your Ebook

CAN CUT FLOWERS REALLY BE FROST FREE?

Yes, but with some limitations.  Some flowers will never be frost free–dahlias, zinnias, and cosmos will always die once the cold arrives, unless you cover them or heat them somehow.  

The flowers in the Frost Free Flower Garden can last from temperatures ranging from -2 to -10 degrees Celsius. 

While the plan can’t keep you in flowers should a surprise -20 day happen in October, the Frost Free Flower Garden will typically keep you in cut flowers past the first frost in September all the way until Canadian Thanksgiving (the middle of October).

When everyone else is mourning the loss of their flowers because of an earlier than usual frost, you’ll still be harvesting flowers for a few weeks longer.

And for you flower farmers out there–wouldn’t it feel amazing knowing your business doesn’t have to end unexpectedly?  That you can have some control over your bottom line with a reserve of gorgeous blooms, grown just for this occasion?

This is for you if...

  • You're a backyard gardener or flower farmer with a larger garden.
  • You live in place with a cold climate and short growing season, where the first frost can happen anywhere from August 27th to September 15th.
  • You want to extend the time you can grow and/or sell flowers
  • You're comfortable starting seeds. You won't find these flowers started for you in a nursery!!

This is not for you if...

  • You're not open to growing cut flowers that aren't currently as typically grown.
  • You're thankful when the first frost kills all your flowers
  • You live in a warmer climate, zone 6 or higher. However, if you do decide to purchase, I would LOVE to hear about your results and how long you can push your flower growing season.
  • You're a complete beginner to gardening. While it is possible to still be successful, this strategy is intended for intermediate to advanced gardeners.

Hey, I'm Kristen

I’m a zone 3 gardener out of Saskatoon, SK who is passionate about growing pretty flowers.  Where I live, we only have 90-110 days to grow flowers, and our season often gets cut short by surprise frosts in early September, and sometimes in late August.  

Every year I felt so frustrated when we had an early frost at the beginning of September, and then three completely gorgeous weeks of weather where growing flowers would have been possible–if only they hadn’t died from that first frost.

I created this system by observing some happy accidents in the garden.  During a particularly cold season, some flowers that would have never made it to the first frost did, and the seed for a new ebook was planted.  

I’m a former farm kid turned urban gardener and my mission is to make gardening as easy and accessible as possible for new gardeners.  Not everyone has “that friend who grows everything” and I want to be that person for you, through my e-books, social media, and blog, Shifting Roots.

When I’m not growing flowers, you can find me spending time with my husband and three kids, singing, playing piano, or baking up a storm.

Work with Mother Nature (instead of being at her mercy)

For the cost of a few seed packets, you can extend your flower season by a month! 

Canadians, use code CANADA to account for the exchange

Get your ebook

Frequently Asked Questions

How cold of temperatures will my flowers withstand?

The flowers in this ebook will withstand temperatures from -2 Celsius up to -10 Celsius.  Anything colder than that, and everything will die without being covered.

Will my flowers continue to bloom after the frost?

They might.  However, they will not bloom as continuously in September and October as they did in July and August.

Can a beginner do this?

You can try, but this ebook is intended for people with at least 3 years of gardening experience or more.  You need to be comfortable with seed starting and committed to planting everything at the correct times.

I don't like seed starting. Is there any way I can do this without it?

Maybe.  But it’s going to be more expensive and difficult to get the same results.

It gets so cold where I live, will this work for me?

Yes!  Frost Proof Flower Garden is designed for you!  I also live where it’s cold, so I know your struggles.

Sounds interesting, but I live in zone 6 or higher.

This plan isn’t really created for you, however, I think it could still be successful in your zone with some modifications.  If you’re up for the challenge and want to give it a try, let me know how it goes!

Can't I just cover my dahlias and other heat loving flowers?

Yes, but do you really want to be running outside to cover your flowers every single night the temperature drops?  And if you have a larger operation, there’s no way you can be covering everything without significant investment and manpower.

How much space & sunlight do you need for this garden?

You need a spot that gets at least 8 hours of sun a day, and as much sun as possible in the fall months. You can plant as little or as much as you want, but the plan I’ve made is designed to fit in a small to medium sized backyard garden.

MAKE BEAUTIFUL BOUQUETS LIKE THESE FOR WEEKS AFTER THE CUT FLOWER SEASON IS TYPICALLY DONE.

Give customers (or yourself) the gift of unique, locally grown flowers that not everybody else is growing.

FROST PROOF YOUR FLOWERS

Get your copy today before another frost takes you by surprise and ruins your crops.

Yes Please!

© SHIFTINGROOTS  |  DESIGN BY BLUCHIC | TERMS

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How to Propagate A Christmas Cactus

November 5, 2020

You have this adorable Christmas cactus, but then your inquisitive toddler gets into your plant and suddenly that houseplant got a haircut it didn’t need.

Sigh.

Don’t throw away those bits and pieces of Christmas cactus!! You can easily propagate them into new baby plants. Now to find a place where said toddler can’t reach them. . .

Before we get into how to propagate houseplants, a quick disclaimer. Yes, my Christmas cactus is actually a Thanksgiving Cactus. I’m just calling it that because that’s what the general public knows them as. Click here to read more about telling the difference.

Okay, on to making the best of toddler shenanigans–I mean, propagating my Thanksgiving cactus.

Find the Roots, if any

Chances are, your Thanksgiving cactus broke off between two leaf segments (called phylloclades, if you were wondering). If not, break off the broken segments, so that you’re left with a piece of plant that has its segments intact.

If you’re really lucky, those leaf segments might have a root starting to develop. And if that’s the case, plop it in some cactus soil and call it a day. If not, don’t worry, we’re going to encourage the plant to make some.

Place the Leaf Segments in Water

Grab a small glass or bowl and fill it with water. Put your Thanksgiving cactus clipping in the water, and wait anywhere from 2 weeks to a month and roots should develop. You don’t need to do anything special or add any fertilizers. Just be patient.

In these photos, my Thanksgiving Cactus had probably been in the water for 2 or 3 months, waiting for me to remember/find the time to actually put it in a pot. So don’t worry if your roots don’t look as thick or plentiful as in the photos. Once your cutting has a few roots (don’t stress about how many) it’s on to the next step.

Repot the Christmas Cactus

Next, find a small pot and put your clipping in cactus soil. Regular potting soil will do, but cactus soil is a lot better, and it’s not that hard to find. Thanksgiving cacti like to be a bit root bound, so it’s important not to plant it in a giant pot. Find a cool spot with low light for your cactus, and wait for it to grow and bloom!

To learn more about Christmas cacti, read this post next.

For more tips on how to care for your Christmas cactus, I made this video for you about why your Christmas cactus might not be blooming:

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Filed Under: Uncategorised Tagged: Christmas Cactus, houseplants, propagating succulents

How to Grow Dahlias in a Short Growing Season and Cold Climate

October 27, 2020

Dahlias are the queen of the cut flower growing world, but they can be tricky to grow and care for if you garden in a cold climate and short growing season. By the time they’ve grown and started blooming, the growing season is almost over and you might not even get to enjoy your blooms before the first frost.

I’ve been growing dahlias for cut flowers in zone 3–which means I only have between 90 and 110 days to work with every year. In this post I’ll share how to start your dahlias so you actually get to enjoy the blooms, how to care for them, and answer some of the most common dahlia growing questions.

Rainbow bouquet of dahlias held by a woman.

P.S. I’m also assuming that you’re wanting to grow dahlias for cut flowers, and not to put in pots. While you can grow cut flower dahlia varieties in pots, it’s better to grow them in the grown or in a raised bed.

Are dahlias easy to grow?

Yes and no. The actual growing once you put them in the ground is easy. The hard part comes when the season is over and it’s time to dig them up, divide them, and store them over the winter.

In a short growing season, the biggest challenge is to get enough blooms before the first frost comes. To combat this, I take all of my tubers out of storage in April and set them in front of a window or under a grow light. They don’t need to be watered or anything, but exposing them to light will help them to start growing.

You don’t HAVE to do this step (especially if you have a longer growing season), but it really does help. I’ve planted many a dahlia on the late side, only to be stuck with a cool summer and have only one or two blooms. Not fun!

A pail of freshly cut dahlias on a path in a dahlia garden.

Once all risk of frost has passed (usually a week or two after your last frost date), it’s time to plant the dahlia tubers in the ground. Dahlias prefer full sun, so plant them in an area that gets at least 8 hours a day. I have had success planting them in an area that only got 5-6 hours of direct sun a day, but I didn’t get as many blooms.

Plant them in well drained soil. The tubers can rot if they don’t get enough drainage. Water them regularly and fertilize with a water soluble fertilizer every two weeks. (Or sprinkle on a slow release fertilizer at the beginning of the season and forget about it.)

Once you start to get blooms, keep cutting them to encourage even more growth. Cut the stems as long as possible (even if you don’t need them that long) so that you don’t end up with a bunch of weird, short stems.

Pink dahlias grown in a field

Dahlias are very sensitive to frost, and will die if they freeze. Once your first frost hits, your dahlia season will be over, unless you cover them to try and extend the season.

Once they freeze, cut off the flower and dig out the tubers. Take off as much soil as possible, label them, and store them over the winter.

Where do you buy dahlia tubers?

There are many great places to get dahlia tubers from, it just depends what kinds of tubers you want. If you want the prettiest kinds that all the flower farmers grow, you’ll want to head to this post to get a list.

Rainbow bouquet of dahlias thrown over a woman's shoulder.

Can you leave dahlias in the ground over winter?

Unfortunately, no, unless you live in zone 8 or higher. In that case, cut them off, top them with a thick, dry mulch, and forget about them.

As for the rest of us, if you do not dig them out in the fall they will not come back in the spring. They will simply turn to mush and become compost for the soil. Frankly, dahlias are too pretty and too expensive to succumb to this fate!!

If you desperately want to try and tempt fate, maybe put a whole bale worth of straw over them? However, I’m really skeptical that that will work in a -40 winter. (If someone tried it and it actually worked, will you let me know in the comments!?!?)

Dahlia tuber after being dug up in the fall.

Broken, Shrivelled, and Dead Dahlia Tubers

No matter how well you try and store your dahlias over the winter, you will likely end up with some broken, shrivelled, mouldy, or dead dahlia tubers. Some can be salvaged, and others can’t.

Broken dahlia tubers are the best candidates for actually surviving. As long as they have an eye on them, they should bloom that year. If a tuber breaks, let it dry until it has a bit of a scab over the broken part, then try planting it in the spring.

Mouldy dahlias tubers are generally not worth planting, and will just eventually rot. Put all mouldy tubers into the compost.

Shrivelled dahlia tubers happen when the area you store them in is too warm. If the tuber feels papery and hollow, it has shrivelled too much and is dead. If is still has something to it, it can still possibly grow and thrive.

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    So that’s basically what you need to know to grow beautiful dahlias! Now head over to my post about overwintering dahlias, the best varieties to plant for cut flowers, and where to purchase dahlias.


    READY TO GROW YOUR OWN BEAUTIFUL CUT FLOWER GARDEN, WITHOUT THE HASSEL?

    I’ve taken all the guesswork out of creating a cut flower garden with my e-book, Cut Flowers Made Simple. It’s the perfect way for beginner and intermediate gardeners to start their own cut flower garden with or without seed starting.

    Click on the picture to find out more or get your copy.


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    Filed Under: Uncategorised Tagged: cut flowers, dahlias

    Swoon-worthy Dahlia Varieties for your Cut Flower Garden

    October 23, 2020

    Admit it. You’ve caught the dahlia growing bug. You’ve seen all those gorgeous flower farming accounts on IG and you’re officially in love. You know you want to grow dahlias for cut flowers, but there are so. many. varieties. How do you know which dahlias make the best cut flowers? Which varieties are the prettiest and work the best in your flower arrangements?

    In this post I’ll break down what to look for in a dahlia variety (and if it’s even intended for cutting!) and share some of my favourites that look good in both your garden as well as the vase. Then, when you’ve made your list of must-haves, head over to these posts to learn even more about dahlias.

    • How to Grow Dahlias (Especially if you have a short growing season)
    • How to Overwinter Dahlias
    • The Best Places to Buy Dahlias
    A field of tall red coloured dahlia flowers at dusk.

    How to tell if a Dahlia variety would make a good cut flower

    As I mentioned above, there are TONS of dahlia varieties available. The amount is staggering, and it’s sometimes difficult to know if you’re getting a good one. They’re also pretty expensive! A cheap dahlia tuber goes for around $4 a piece, and more expensive ones can go for around $10. They’re also labour intensive, as they need to be dug out in the fall, stored over the winter, started early, and then planted. Talk about a lot of money and work for a flower! All this to say, you don’t want to mess it up.

    The best way to tell if a dahlia would be good for cutting is to check the height of the plant. Anything that will grow to around 3 feet or more is a sure bet. The shorter varieties are either meant for containers or to be planted in landscapes. While you can use these flowers in arrangements, the stems will likely not be as long as you’d like them.

    Every Shape and Size

    Dahlias generally come in 4 different sizes: small (sometimes called pom-sized), medium, large, and dinner plate. I personally am not a fan of the super large dinner plate varieties for cutting, only because the flowers are too big for most arrangements. However, the offshoot flowers tend to be smaller and a more reasonable size.

    Dahlias can come in a wide range of colours and combinations–red, orange, yellow, coral, pink, purple, white and very deep reds and purples. They also have different textures. Some, like Cafe Au Lait have looser textured petals, and others, like Jowie Winnie are tighter. There’s also cactus varieties, that have thin spiky petals.

    An example of a cactus variety of dahlia, grown in zone 3. Medium sized with orange tips and yellow base.

    Every flower farmer will have their preferences, but these are some of my favourite varieties. They’re the ones that make your brides happy and your IG account swoon-worthy.

    Looking for some easy to grow cut flowers? You’ll love these 10 picks:

    Tips for Purchasing Dahlias

    So it’s your first time growing dahlias, and you’re not sure how much or what to invest in. Here’s what you need to know, and some of my thoughts now that I’ve grown dahlias a couple of years, and invested in both cheap and expensive tubers.

    If you are growing dahlias purely for your own enjoyment, start by buying the cheap ones at a big box store. They’re much cheaper, and if you lose a tuber or two it’s not such a big deal because they’re not nearly as expensive. however, you will likely not find the really coveted varieties like I’ve listed here. That’s okay. Digging up and storing dahlia tubers over the winter is a bit tricky, so it’s better to lose cheap tubers than expensive ones.

    Different pink varieties of dahlias

    If you are a flower farmer, or wanting to start a side hustle selling bouquets from your backyard, then it’s better to buy from a reputable grower or another flower farmer so you actually get the varieties that customers want. It’s a sizeable investment, but once you have the tubers, you can cut and divide them every year and expand your collection.

    P.S. If you’re thinking about starting a cut flower farming business, you’ll want to get on the list for Cut Flowers Made Simple: Serious Side Hustle so you’ll be the first to know when it comes out in December.

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      The Best Dahlia Varieties for Flower Farmers

      While every flower farmer will eventually figure out their favourites and what sells well with their customers, these are some of the prettiest varieties that you will often see in wedding bouquets and IG pictures.

      A quick disclaimer–I’ve made every effort to get the right dahlia pictured, but I didn’t label every one when I took a picture of it! I’ve taken my best educated guess, but there may be the odd dahlia that is not correct. If I’m unsure, I’ve made notes about which other dahlia I think it could be. Thanks for understanding!!

      Sweet Nathalie

      Gorgeous in wedding work, and paired with other dusty pinks, lavender, or Burgundy.

      Photo Courtesy of Busy Bee Farm and Florals

      Wizard of Oz

      A smaller dahlia variety with pink and white petals and a yellow centre. They look beautiful in wedding bouquets.

      Wizard of Oz Dahlia, light pink with yellow centre, small and pom sized.

      Arabian Night

      Arabian Night is one of the first dahlias to bloom in the summer. I also found it to be more resistant to thrips than my other varieties.

      Photo by Blush Brand Photography

      Peaches and Cream

      This blush colour is on point and will look dreamy on your table or in a wedding arrangement.

      Photo courtesy of Covers Flower Farm

      Cafe Au Lait

      The original must-have dahlia for flower growers. Cafe Au Lait also comes in other variations, such as Rose and Royal–which are equally as beautiful!

      Three Cafe Au Lait dahlias amongst calendula.

      Penhill Watermelon

      A beautiful watermelon shade that adds a bit of pop to an arrangement. This one might also be Cafe Au Lait Rose.

      Jowie Winnie

      Jowie Winnie is one of those beautiful, muted, complex colours. Is it purple? Pink? Hints of coral? Whatever it is, it’s beautiful and blends seamlessly with other colours in the arrangement.

      Photo Courtesy of Sarah’s Cut Flowers

      Sweet Love

      A beautiful pink and white variety. Otto’s Thrill also has a similar feel.

      Sylvia

      A small yellowy/peach variety that looks elegant in fall arrangements.

      Linda’s Baby

      I would argue that Linda’s baby is almost as standard amongst dahlia growers as Cafe Au Lait. A must-have in your garden!


      SEE WHAT’S POSSIBLE AND LEARN HOW I DESIGNED MY SMALL SPACE BACKYARD CUT FLOWER GARDEN IN THIS VIDEO. . .


      READY TO GROW YOUR OWN BEAUTIFUL CUT FLOWER GARDEN, WITHOUT THE HASSEL?

      I’ve taken all the guesswork out of creating a cut flower garden with my e-book, Cut Flowers Made Simple. It’s the perfect way for beginner and intermediate gardeners to start their own cut flower garden with or without seed starting.

      Click on the picture to find out more or get your copy.


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      Filed Under: Uncategorised Tagged: cutflowers

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      Welcome!

      Hi, I'm Kristen and I help new gardeners learn to grow their own vegetables and beautify their yards. I also share recipes that use all that delicious garden produce. Grab a coffee (and your gardening gloves) and join me for gardening tips, simple recipes, and the occasional DIY, all from the lovely city of Saskatoon, Saskatchewan.

      P.S. First time gardener? You'll want to download the quick start gardening guide below!

      Recent Posts

      • How to Grow Eucalyptus for Cut Flowers (Even in a Short Growing Season!)
      • 26 Best Flowers to Grow for Dried Flower Arrangements
      • 17 Perennial Flowers That Love Shade
      • How to Design a Cut Flower Garden in Raised Beds
      • How to Start a Cut Flower Garden

      Welcome!

      Hi, I’m Kristen and I help new gardeners learn to grow their own vegetables and beautify their yards. I also share recipes that use all that delicious garden produce. Grab a coffee (and your gardening gloves) and join me for gardening tips, simple recipes, and the occasional DIY, all from the lovely city of Saskatoon, Saskatchewan.

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      Currently trying to embrace the snow. . . ⁠ ⁠ Currently trying to embrace the snow. . . ⁠
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Do any of you watch gardeners on YouTube who grow in way warmer climates than yours?  Basically, almost all of the YouTubers I watch garden somewhere warmer than I do, except for the one in Alaska.  The first time my husband introduced me to the world of gardening vlogs, I just sat there fuming.  It was February.  It was -30.  And here I was watching people with green lawns starting their vegetable gardens. ⁠
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By now I've gotten used to it, and I actually really enjoy watching them while I've still got snow on the ground.  There's just something about living vicariously through someone else's garden.⁠
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If you also watch a lot of garden YouTube, who are your favourites?  Mine are @roots_and_refuge @you.cant.eat.the.grass @epicgardening @joshsattin @flowerhillfarmny ⁠
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P.S. I'm on YouTube too!  Subscribe for my longer-form content, how to videos, and (when it's warmer) vlogs and garden tours.
      Growing a luffa sponge was possibly the most chall Growing a luffa sponge was possibly the most challenging and finicky thing I've taken on so far as a gardener in zone 3.  And all I got to show for it was 3 baby loofah sponges, which are so precious to me that I can't bare to actually use them. (Kind of defeats the point, doesn't it?)⁠⠀
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I'll be starting mine soon, so I though I would share some of the improvements to the growing process from last year.⁠⠀
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1. Plant in larger containers!! I thought I used large enough ones, but I sorely underestimated how big these plants would get indoors.  Once of my readers suggested buckets, and I think this is an excellent idea.⁠⠀
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2. Plant only 1 plant per container.  I thought loofah's would be like a cucumber or pumpkin or other vining squash where you plant in a hill.  The containers with two plants in them did not do as well as the single seed containers.⁠⠀
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3. Have a string for the vine to climb.  Cutting the vine off of my window screen was not fun.⁠⠀
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Will you try luffas this year?⁠⠀
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#luffasponge #loofahsponge #luffachallenge2012 #seedstarting #wintergardening #indoorgardening⁠⠀
      Got the seed starting itch? There's some things y Got the seed starting itch?  There's some things you can actually seed start now and you won't end up with crazy leggy seedlings and endless problems.  In fact, these plants require that you start now, and need to be started in zone 3 by the end of February at the absolute latest.⁠
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I've already started some lisianthus and eucalyptus, and am waiting on my seed orders to start some more.⁠
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If you're starting a luffa sponge, make sure you have some sort of eventual plan for the vine.  last year mine went over my fall windows before I was able to take them outdoors.⁠
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P.S. I've actually never started onions from seed, so if anyone wants to chin in about their experience, feel free!
      Growing eucalyptus for the first time this year? Growing eucalyptus for the first time this year?  A new post is on the blog to walk you through it.  While in theory eucalyptus is easy to grow, it's challenging in my zone 3 garden for three reasons: ⁠
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➡️It needs a long time to mature⁠
➡️I have a short growing season⁠
➡️I live in a cool climate, and eucalyptus grows better when its warm.⁠
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That said, you can see by this picture that it can be done!!⁠
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Are you growing eucalyptus this year?
      Oh friends, if any of my nice, curated photos sums Oh friends, if any of my nice, curated photos sums up how this last week went, I think it's this one.  Babies crying, trying to stay calm, outwardly looking like it's all under control, but feeling very overwhelmed.⁠
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This post isn't gardening related, so feel free to scroll by if you're here only for the gardening content.⁠
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Thankfully it's January, and I keep reminding myself that the Internet will not break if I don't keep to my self-imposed posting schedule.  But it doesn't make a week full of teething-and-not-sleeping baby any easier. ⁠
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Felicity slept through the night for the first time ever last Monday, then proceeded to punish us with frequent wakings and terrible sleep until Saturday.  And as tough as this is in regular times, in Covid times its extra frustrating because I don't have my village.⁠
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I can't just call up another Mama friend and go for coffee at her house.  I can't take my son out for a Mommy-and-Dominic date because everything he'd want to do isn't really much of an option.  There's no playgroup or play place to just drop in on.  And forget just taking everybody out to get groceries just for a change of scenery.⁠
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I know people have way more serious problems than this, and I hope I don't sound whiny and entitled, it's not my intention.  Please know that I'm very grateful for my family and job and that so far we've been healthy. ⁠
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A lot of you who follow me do so in part because you are also juggling life with very little people through this strange time.  I hope that in occasionally sharing my struggles, it makes you feel better about your struggles. (You're struggling too sometimes. . . right?)
      Do you tend to plan out your garden to the nth deg Do you tend to plan out your garden to the nth degree, do you just wing it, or are you somewhere in-between?⁠
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I tend to plan it all out, and then when I actually get out in the field, so to speak, the plan changes a little bit. ⁠
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If you need a garden planner that's both pretty & practical, my garden planner is available in the ebooks section.  It's only $9 and has lots of upgrades from the previous planner.  Use code CANADA if you're Canadian to account for the exchange.⁠
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P.S. You can see exactly what you're getting in the video--no surprises. ⁠
P.P.S  I get my planner bound and printed at a printing place.  Lots of people just print their own and put the sheets in a binder.
      Are you gardening in containers this year? When y Are you gardening in containers this year?  When you're shopping for vegetable seeds, look for varieties that have names with words like patio, tiny, small, etc.  While lots of vegetable varieties will do fine in a container, you'll have an easier time with ones that are specifically bred for that situation.⁠
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